Reykjavík, the only real city in Iceland; home to two thirds of the population. It’s an eclectic mix of old and new reflecting the rapid growth in tourism that the country is struggling to manage. The city has an undercurrent of young rebellion with late nights, fuelled by drugs and booze that flows like their waterfalls. Whale meat features on the menu in the slick and eye wateringly expensive restaurants – and yes I did. I didn’t want to like it, I really didn’t. But I did. It’s good (sorry Greenpeace).
We escaped the city after two nights and are now in the south-central highlands. It’s stunning. More geothermal activity in this area with natural hot springs and a couple of mountains on the watchlist for a Big Bang anytime. Long drive yesterday, 9 hours of bad roads, some really narley river crossings and a storm blowing right from the bowels of the earth. Was glad to get back to base last night after fighting to keep the Landie on the road in 80 km/hr winds. Worth it though, beautiful.